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By Jay McInerney

In A Hedonist within the Cellar, Jay McInerney gathers greater than 5 years’ worthy of essays and maintains his exploration of what’s new, what’s enduring, and what’s surprising–giving his palate an entire work out and the reader an quintessential, idiosyncratic consultant to an international of just about limitless variety. Filled with delights oenophiles all over the place will get pleasure from, this can be a assortment pushed not just via wine itself but in addition the folks who make it. An pleasing, impossible to resist publication that's crucial for an individual enthralled by way of the myriad pleasures of wine.

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In all of these places, advances in viticulture have inevitably been accompanied by the evolution of gastronomy. And in fact my own wine education has brought me gradually into a greater appreciation of food, as has my association with Lora Zarubin, the food editor of House & Garden, who almost inevitably accompanies me on these trips. Lora was, for all too brief a period, the owner and chef of Lora’s, one of my favorite New York restaurants of the eighties. At the time downtown restaurants were divided into those places where you went to see and be seen and those you went to for the food.

Which is a good value and a great, not-too-serious summertime quaff. In collaboration with Chateau Ste. Michelle, in Washington State, Loosen also makes a very fine Riesling, Eroica. Simplified labeling, of course, is hardly a guarantee of quality. It was Blue Nun and Black Tower, after all, that created the stereotype of German whites as the vinous equivalent of Dunkin’ Donuts. The most important element on a German wine label is the maker’s name, and in order to experience the torquey and transcendent pleasures of Geman Riesling you need to memorize a few.

Once literally a voice in the wilderness—in the Santa Maria Valley— he has been making svelte Burgundian Chardonnays for two decades, and has influenced many of those who have followed him to this region. “The most important thing is to pick grapes in balance,” says Clendenen, who scoffs at the notion that a Chardonnay with 15 percent alcohol could possibly have balance, and who has often been criticized for picking underripe grapes. Clendenen, who has been in and out of fashion several times since his start in 1982, believes that the American wine world is definitely coming back in his direction.

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