By Maryann Tebben
Tebben starts in fifth-century China with its many fermented sauces, then follows them alongside alternate routes from East to West as they turn into a commodity and helped seafarers upload taste to their rations. Tracing the evolution of foodstuff know-how, she explores the advance of the artwork of sauce production and examines the foams, ices, and smokesbarely recognizable as saucesthat are present in the more and more well known global of molecular gastronomy. Tebben additionally investigates the various controversies that experience sprung up round sauceshow salsa has overtaken ketchup in reputation within the usa, and the way British Worcestershire sauce truly originated in Indiaand bargains tantalizing historic comparisons comparable to that among ketchup and Tabasco. a captivating examine the resource of soy sauce, mole, beurre blanc, and extra, Sauces will please specialist cooks and beginner sauciers alike.
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Additional resources for Sauces: A Global History
Sample text
Now a term beloved by trendy chefs, a coulis is no longer an extravagant long-simmered base for complicated sauces but usually a purée or reduction of a single ingredient, and fruit coulis are as common as savoury ones. In a reversal of meaning, coulis have become the simplest kind of basic sauce: the French Laundry cookbook reassures home cooks that if the fonds-based sauces are too labour-intensive, glazes and coulis are an effective substitute. In France, fond literally means ‘base’; fonds are long-simmered, delicately flavoured meat or fish broths.
The emphasis on sauce was so pervasive at this culinary moment that a new term was coined for a bad cook: gâte-sauce or ‘sauce spoiler’ entered the French language in . The codification of sauce recipes in Marie-Antonin Carême’s Le Cuisinier parisien () and L’Art de la cuisine française au XIXe siècle () grew out of his effort to streamline and simplify sauce preparation, further distancing himself from the coulis in favour of a trio of basic sauces – espagnole, velouté and béchamel – with cold egg-based sauces like mayonnaise treated separately.
Tomato ketchup arrived in America via a circuitous route from Asia and the ‘India Soy’ products imported to Britain from the seventeenth century onwards, as English cooks imitated these fermented sauces with their own preparations. Etymologically the word ‘ketchup’ may have emerged from the name of the Indonesian sauce kecap or ke-tsiap, but the sauce has similarities to the vinegar sauce escabeche from Moorish Spain, whose name derives from the Arabic word iskebêy, meaning vinegar pickle. Vinegar and strong spices, not tomato, connect the fermented origin sauces (soy and fish) to eighteenth-century British ketchups.